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General Tarantula Care
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Food:
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Tarantulas will eat crickets, moths, beetle larvae
(meal worms or superworms), houseflies and cockroaches.
Some larger tarantulas will accept live baby rodents,
lizards, and snakes. When feeding, a good rule of
thumb is to offer prey items that are about half the
spider's size, although some tarantulas are aggressive
eaters and will eat prey as large as themselves. You
should feed your tarantula prey items that you are
sure have not been contaminated with pesticides.
Safe prey items can be purchased from reputable feeder
insect breeders and pet stores. How much you feed
your tarantula is up to you. Some people want their
spider to grow as fast as possible and will feed them
every day. Spiders, in general, will keep eating until
they are full, approaching a molt, or ready to lay
an egg sac. Care must be taken to remove any prey
items that have not been eaten within 24 hours or
so, as uneaten prey items can be stressful for the
tarantula and have been known to damage and even kill
tarantulas if left longer. It is advisable to remove
the remains of any prey items from your tarantula's
enclosure so that they do not cause unhealthy conditions
for your pet.
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| Drinking
Water: |
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Tarantulas
do require a source of drinking water that you can
provide by using any shallow container filled with
water. Small pill vial lids work well for spiderlings
and small tarantulas. Shallow bowls, plastic food
container lids work for larger tarantulas. You can
also supply water by misting water on the substrate
and the sides of the enclosure. Care should be taken
to keep a minimum of one moist corner within the enclosure,
and gauging the amount of misting to the humidity
requirements of your particular tarantula.
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| Substrate: |
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Potting
soil is a very good substrate to use, it holds moisture
and it allows for burrowing. Also, a combination of
peat moss, sand, and commercial potting soil (be
certain that there are no pesticide or chemical additives)
is an excellent and versatile substrate. Tarantulas
do not do well with the ornamental sand that is often
used with reptiles. Some require a high level of humidity
that can not be accomplished using sand and many tarantulas
burrow and this is not possible in sand.
Warning: There is new evidence
that some commercial grade vermiculite may contain
harmful levels of asbestos-like substance. This substance
has been implicated in causing serious lung disease
in humans.
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| Housing: |
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You
can keep your tarantula in a very simple and inexpensive
plastic container that has many air holes placed in
the sides and lid. Or you can keep it in a more expensive
glass terrarium container with a screen lid. Tarantulas
do not require plants or decorations, but if you want
to make your pet’s home more attractive you may choose
to decorate the enclosure. Silk plants are better
than live plants because you do not need to be concerned
with over-watering the enclosure trying to meet the
requirements of a live plant. Cork bark and driftwood
are attractive items to decorate with. Avoid items
that are sharp or rough in texture. Remember that
terrestrial (ground dwelling) tarantulas like more
ground space and a deeper substrate. Arboreal (tree
dwelling) tarantulas need taller enclosures with a
piece of cork bark or similar item to climb.
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| Climate: |
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Most
tarantulas can be kept in the range of 70-85 degrees
fahrenheit. It is important that you refer to the
specific temperature and humidity needs of your pet
tarantula. Keep in mind that the warmer you keep your
tarantula, the higher its metabolic rate will be.
It will want to eat more often and will grow fast.
It can dehydrate quicker so you must be very observant
of it's environment and care if you want to do it.
If your tarantula requires moderate to high humidity,
you can provide this by keeping the substrate partially
or completely moist. If you use a light for heat and
display, be sure to monitor the humidity levels closely.
Turn the light off at night unless it gets below 65
degrees in you house. If you have to provide a heating
source, we recommend an incandescent black light that
won't disturb the tarantula if left on all the time.
Again, it is important to know the specific needs of
your pet. It is advisable to let the temperature decrease
as much as 10 degrees at night, especially for desert
tarantulas.
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| Molting: |
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When
a tarantula approaches a molt, it may not eat for
at least a week prior to the molt. Remove all uneaten
prey items within 24 hours of introduction. Prey items
left with a molting tarantula can cause stress and
have been known to injure or even kill them. Be sure
that you are maintaining proper humidity levels if
your tarantula is approaching a molt. If your tarantula
is a species that requires less humidity, then you
should mist one corner of its enclosure to insure
adequate humidity for an easier molt. Your
tarantula will be on its back during the molting cycle.
Do not become alarmed, it is not dead. Do not disturb
or feed your tarantula for at least three days after
molting. It takes several days for baby tarantulas
to harden up and to regain their normal color and
mobility after molting. Adults can take weeks.
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Handling:
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Some
species of tarantula are known for their docile nature,
and hence, are handled by some people. We do not recommend
handling tarantulas, primarily for the safety of the
animal. Tarantulas can easily be injured from a fall
or other mishap. In addition, all tarantulas are venomous
and have the ability to bite. Tarantulas are untamed
animals and are therefore unpredictable.
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